We are passionate about succulents and satisfying food...

AIR PLANT/TILLANDSIA CARE

Location/Light

Place your air plants in medium-bright indirect light. They may burn and suffer if they receive too much direct sun. If you've been looking for that perfect bathroom plant, you've found it (if your bathroom has bright indirect light). Airplants love the humidity so if you take a shower every day or so that's perfect. They'll love you...and the humidity!

Water

Since airplants absorb water and nutrients through their leaves (they have little or no appreciable roots) you must either mist them or soak them in water. Misting once a week is good, but soaking in non-chlorinated water every week or 2 is best. Non-chlorinated water is easy to make - just always keep a pitcher or bowl of water on your counter and the chlorine burns off in 24 hours or so. Soak for 15 minutes up to an hour. When removing from the soak, turn the plants upside down and give them a good shake to remove any water that is trapped between the leaves at the base of the plant (which can cause the base to become mushy/rotten with eventual death). If the summer is hot and dry, the airplants should have a once a week soak for sure.

Fertilizer

Approximately every 2 months soak your airplants in water with a touch of fertilizer (20-20-20). In a gallon of water, dissolve a 1/8 teaspoon of granules.

Temperature

Airplants will do fine anywhere from 10 C to 32 C (if not in direct sun). Never let them freeze.

Troubleshooting

• Brown/crispy ends? Water more often.Brown/mushy base? Too much water. After a mist, make sure that no water has collected at the base between the leaves. If it has, give it a good shake. After soaking always make sure to give the plant a good shake.
• Flowering? Don't change a thing. Your plants are very happy. Keep doin' what you're doin'!

ORCHID CARE

Although orchids have the reputation of being hard to care for (think 'hothouse orchid'), they are actually very easy to care for, perhaps even easier to care for than succulents. Orchid blooms can often last 2 to 3 months so they are well worth their cost. With the proper care, they can even re-bloom again and again.

Water

Orchids do not like tap water....ever! Plain and simple. Use rain water or melt snow if at all possible. Before watering make sure the top 1 to 2 inches of growing medium is dry to the touch. Never allow your orchid to stand in water.

Light

Orchids like light, but never direct sun. Moderate to bright light is preferred.

Temperature

Room temperature (17 to 25 degreees C) is preferred.

Re-Blooming

Once your orchid has finished blooming, cut the bloom off about an inch below the bloom but above a stem node. Sometimes a branch will emerge with more blooms. If nothing happens within about 6 to 8 weeks, cut the flower stem back as close to the leaves as you can, but above the first node. Move your plant to a cooler room (often a bedroom) for 6 to 8 weeks and then bring out into a warmer room.

Fertilizer

Not required if using rain or melted snow.

The myth is so widespread that you may even see conflicting versions of the test – some say your oil should solidify if it’s real, and others say it should not solidify if it’s real. If only it were that easy! This “test” unfortunately, is completely false and misleading. Read on to see why even the rumour-mongers are confused on this one.

Almost all oils will become cloudy and eventually solidify at cold temperatures. Generally speaking, refined oils (such as regular olive oil or vegetable or seed oils) will solidify at a lower temperature than extra virgin olive oil. However, the time and the level of cold required to get to the solidification stage are greatly affected by the overall chemical compounds of the oil. These include the contents of the saturated fatty acid chains, like palmitic or stearic acid, that can change the melting-point of the triglycerides (the main constituent representing almost 98% of all oils and fats) and other compounds in oil, as well as the presence of natural waxes.

The profile of an olive oil, and especially Extra Virgin Olive Oil, is incredibly diverse because the oil’s makeup is affected by so many natural factors that vary by region, season, and type of olive. These include:

• The olive variety
• The seasonal growing conditions
• The latitude of the country of originThe time of harvest
• The processing methods

All these factors affect the final profile of the olive oil, and even olives from the same trees can produce oil that varies from year to year. Since olives are a fruit, the skin has natural waxes that protect the fruit as it grows. Evidence of these waxes can be traced in the final product. These natural waxes aren’t harmful, but the range found is variable and some suppliers even chill and filter the oil to remove visible waxes for appearance purposes in order to produce a more polished oil, which will also affect the oil’s solidification temperature. Finally, in order to achieve and keep a consistent flavour profile, some producers may blend several varieties of extra virgin olive oil from various types of olives or regions. This will also affect the time and the level of cold required to get to the solidification stage.

There is no simple magic home test to check for olive oil authenticity. Extra virgin olive oil will crystallize and/or solidify at a wide variety of time and temperature exposures. All this variance is what makes extra virgin olive oil truly special. Forget the fridge, and focus instead on enjoying the wide variety of flavours found amongst extra virgin olive oils.

So, when you use and store your olive oil at home, keep in mind that extra virgin olive oil has four enemies:

1.  TIME: Once bottled, olive oil has an 18-24 month shelf life. And once you open your oil, you’ll want to use it sooner than later. We recommend using up the oil within 30 to 60 days upon opening.
2. LIGHT: Exposure must be minimized or eliminated at all times. Extended exposure to light can deteriorate the quantity and quality of the antioxidants found in olive oil.
3. HEAT: The optimal storage temperature for olive oil is 60 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Exposure to warmer temperatures may cause unpleasant flavours to develop in the olive oil.
4. OXYGEN: Exposure must be minimized or eliminated during storage. Otherwise oxidation of the oil occurs, which causes off-flavours in the olive oil.

Olive oil has a shelf life of two to three years when properly stored in a pantry. It does not matter if the olive oil is opened or unopened. Always reseal yourbottles tightly after use to ensure limited exposure to oxygen.After opening a bottle of oil, use it up quickly and replace it with a fresh bottle every couple of months.

Olive oil can go bad. If the oil develops a rancid or wine-like smell, it has probably spoiled. The best way to store olive oil is in its original container in a cool, dark place, such as a pantry.

There's a million recipes out there, but to get you started real quick here's a few suggestions:

• Create a marinade: Equal parts flavoured olive oil and flavoured balsamic (see Perfect Pairings page for ideas).
• Create the quickest appetizer ever: Buy some bread, place an olive oil and a balsamic in a shallow dish (either separate or together) and dip, dip and dip some more.
• Create a vinaigrette: 2-to-3 (depending on your personal taste) parts olive oil + 1 part balsamic vinegar (shake vigorously or whisk briskly while slowing streaming olive oil into the vinegar)… other ingredients to add: minced garlic, Dijon mustard, salt and pepper to taste.
• Create a reduction or glaze: 2 cups balsamic vinegar in a saucepan, bring it to a boil and then reduce heat, allowing to simmer for about a half an hour or until the balsamic vinegar has thickened to the consistency desired (down to about a 1/2 cup).
• Jazz up your popcorn: Air pop some popcorn then drizzle on a savoury olive oil like butter olive oil (tastes awesome and is way healthier than real butter), mushroom lovers, parmesan cheese, wild mushroom and sage or parmesan and garlic. Or try a combo of your favourite olive oils.
• Might add some salt if you like salt.
• Use our flavoured balsamics right out of the bottle as a sauce for meat or veggies.
• Use our flavoured olive oils to saute your favourite proteins or to roast your favourite meats and veggies.
• Use in baked goods substituting olive oil for canola or vegetable oil.
• Macerate fresh berries in flavoured balsamic for a delicious sauce or to eat as a special dessert over ice cream, cake, doughnuts or ice cream.
• Use as a finishing touch… olive oils over soups, balsamics over desserts (including ice cream, pies, cakes…) or drizzled over cheese.
• Use our premium white balsamics as a cocktail mixer.

What are varietal olive oils?

These are extra-virgin olive oils (EVOO’s) that have been made from a single variety of olive, e.g., Arbequina or Picual. This is the same concept as we see in varietal wines, which are made using a single variety of grape, e.g., Pinot Noir, Shiraz, or Cabernet Sauvignon. As with wines, each variety of olive imparts a distinct taste to its oil.As you will see, and have the opportunity to experience in the store, olive oils can be classified by intensity: mild, medium, and robust. This method of classification is similar to that of, for example, Cheddar cheese.

What are infused or fused olive oils?

The varietals described above have nothing added to them from harvest to consumer. Some olive oils, by contrast, are augmented by introducing additional flavour. The other characteristics of the oil remain the same. Adding flavour is done in one of two quite different processes; one of them gives rise to what is referred to as ‘fused’ oil, the other to ‘infused’ oil.In the production of a ‘fused’ oil, the fruit or vegetable having the desired flavour, e.g., lemons or oranges, is combined with the olives at the time of crushing, that is, the olives and the fruit are crushed together at the same time early in the production process.An ‘infused’ oil, on the other hand, is one to which the concentrated oil from an aromatic natural source has been added later in the production process. Examples include herbs such as basil, and vegetables such as roasted onion. This method provides a wide diversity of flavour options.

What are specialty oils?

Specialty oils are not restricted to those made from olives. Many are made from seeds and nuts. Oil is extracted using one of several defined processes; sources include almond, sesame, walnut, porcini, and avocado. These oils are used as cooking oils or to add flavour directly to food.

What are balsamic vinegars?

True traditional balsamic vinegars are produced in only two locations in the world: the adjacent provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia in the Emilia- Romagna region of northern Italy. These vinegars are made primarily from Trebbiano grapes, though Lambrusco and other grapes are sometimes used. The ripe grapes are pressed and the mixture is then cooked for many hours to reduce it to a concentrate. The concentrate is then aged for up to 18 years in wooden barrels of various sizes. Because true traditional balsamic vinegar is very expensive, we are fortunate that other excellent balsamic vinegars are available to us. “Condimento” balsamic vinegar, for example, is similar to traditional balsamic vinegar, but its production varies slightly from that of the “true traditional” product, for example, it is aged for fewer years.

Dark balsamic vinegars (often simply called “Balsamic Vinegars”) and white balsamic vinegars obtain their different colourings partly through the length of the reduction process and partly through the colour of their flavouring additives. The white vinegars often have a milder taste and are somewhat less sweet.

While there’s a slight possibility that it will go bad (if stored improperly), in almost all cases it will be fine to use for years after buying. So, the answer to the question is affirmative – balsamic vinegar can go bad, but it happens very rarely and only in certain circumstances. Let’s go through the most important pieces of information about storing vinegar, how its quality will be good and how to tell if it's bad.

Balsamic vinegar should be stored like any other vinegar. That is, it should be kept in a cool, dry area, in a dark coloured bottle (not clear) and away from light. Therefore, most people keep it in the pantry, as it seems to be the best choice. Heat and light will affect the taste of balsamic vinegar, so do your best to keep it away from them. Never buy balsamic vinegar that's in a clear bottle as the light will cause the balsamic to deteriorate more rapidly.

After opening the bottle, the thing to remember is that it should be always sealed tightly when not in use. If you store vinegar in a bottle without it's cap, chances are some contaminants might find their way into the bottle and start to develop in there. Even though vinegar isn’t the best place for bacteria and other microorganisms to grow (due to the acidic environment), it might happen. When you always keep the bottle sealed, vinegar going bad isn’t a risk.

As mentioned earlier, vinegar will last years if stored properly. But the sole fact that balsamic vinegar is safe to consume 5 or 10 years after production isn’t the only thing that matters. There’s one more thing that’s even more important – the quality of vinegar over time. You should remember that balsamic vinegar is in it's best quality only for a couple of years ( 2 to 3 years maybe) and its quality slowly deteriorates. So if you find a bottle of balsamic vinegar that was sitting in the cellar for 10 years, the vinegar is safe to consume, but in most cases you really won’t be happy about its taste. The best thing to do is to taste it before using, so you’ll be sure if it still can be used or if you would much rather discard it for quality reasons.

Preserving the quality, freshness and flavour of your spices and seasonings will give you great tasting dishes and help eliminate boring meals.

Spices don't spoil, but over time they do lose their strength. When stored properly spices retain their potency longer than you might think. Whole peppercorns, nutmegs, cloves, cinnamon sticks and whole seeds, such as coriander, cumin, and cardamom all last longer than their ground counterparts.

Proper Storage

There are two critical keys to maintaining the optimum flavour and in getting the greatest value out of your herbs and spices. Store your spices and seasoning blends in air tight containers and keep them in a cool dark place. Keeping containers tightly closed will protect them from moisture and oxidation. Keeping them away from direct light will keep their colour from fading. We've also found that when spices are stored in glass jars they tend to retain more of their essential oil content (this is where the flavour is).

Never store your spices above your stove as the additional heat will more quickly lead to degradation of their quality. Also don't store them directly above your dishwasher as the increased humidity will also shorten their shelf life. Stored spices do best in temperatures below 70° and in lower humidity environments. While achieving both of these may be impractical in your kitchen, the closer you can get to the ideal storage of them the more flavour you will retain.

If you have ever heard it's good to freeze spices and herbs forget it! Condensation will be a problem each time the jar or bag of spice comes out of the freezer and is likely to introduce unwanted moisture to the spices. We also do not recommend shaking herbs or spices out of the bottle directly into something you're cooking as any steam/moisture rising up from the cooking dish will introduce moisture into your jar of spices. Instead it's better to shake the spice into the palm of your hand and then add it to the dish you're cooking.

Some people like to store red spices like chili powder, cayenne pepper and paprika in the refrigerator to prevent loss of colour and flavour. As mentioned in the freezer scenario above, this does more harm than good.

Whole spices keep the longest because they have not been cracked or ground which would expose their volatile oils to the air, which speeds up the breakdown of their flavor. This is why ground spices have a shorter shelf life than whole spices or seeds.

So Many Different Recommendations - Which are Correct?

The general recommendations for freshness dating are four years for whole spices and two years for ground. You may hear people say that spices should be replaced every six months. However, most spices are only harvested once a year, so it certainly doesn't make sense to replace them every six months.

If spices and herbs are kept as we have discussed the shelf life will be as follows:

• Whole spices and dried herbs, leaves and flowers will keep 1 - 2 years.
• Seeds will keep 2 - 3 years and whole roots (i.e. ginger root or galangal root) will keep 3 years.
• Ground spices and herb leaves keep 1 year.
• Ground roots will keep for 2 years.

Just because a spice or seasoning blend is outside the date range listed above doesn't mean that the spice needs to be tossed in the trash. To determine if a spice or seasoning is still good you have to remember "appearance" and "aroma". A spice that is no longer acceptable will have lost much of it's vibrant colour and will instead appear dull and faded. The bigger key though is smell. To determine whether or not a ground spice is still good gently shake the container with the cap on. Remove the cap and smell the spice to see if the potent aroma of the spice is still present. If it is, then your spice is still in good shape. Spices don't just all of a sudden go from good one day to bad the next (like milk). From the time they're harvested they slowly begin to deteriorate and what you want to do is to prolong their optimum flavour for as long as possible with proper storage.

The Bottom Line ....literally haha!

A good overall practice to follow is to only purchase high quality dried herbs, spices and spice blends from reliable suppliers & in small quantities, so that you can easily use them up in a reasonable period of time. 

We make all of our pizza dough in the Solar Gardens At Avalon kitchen with just 4 ingredients---wheat flour, yeast and a dash of salt and a tad of extra virgin olive oil.

You will be baking your pizza on a pizza stone or a baking sheet placed on the middle rack of your oven. A pizza stone is ideal for our pizza shells. If you do have a pizza stone, you should put it in the oven while the oven is preheating so that the stone becomes hot before you place the dressed pizza on it. If you don't have a pizza stone, consider buying one. You can usually find them really cheap now in dollar stores. No worries if you don't have a stone, a regular cookie sheet works pretty good too.

Preheat your oven to almost as high as it will go. 500 F is great, and you could even go a bit higher to 550 F if your oven goes that high. Even lower temperatures will work but the baking time will be increased.

You can bake our dough directly from frozen or thawed. If you are using a thick pizza sauce, it is best to spread it on while the pizza shell is still frozen.

We have placed the pizza shell on parchment paper for your convenience. You will keep the pizza shell on the parchment paper while you dress the pizza and for the first few minutes that it is baking in the oven.

Dress your pizza in this order: Spread the sauce on first. Then sprinkle on the cheese. And finally, add any toppings. Remember that this is a thin crust pizza shell that bakes quickly, so try not to stack your pizza too thick with toppings or it will not cook thoroughly. Try to place your toppings so they are evenly spread on the shell. You don't want to pile all of your topping in the centre, as this will prevent the pizza (and shell) from cooking evenly (ie the centre may be raw). Definitely keep your toppings well under 1/2" thick. We've found about 1/4" thickness is ideal to insure proper cooking of the toppings and shell.

You will allow the pizza to cook on this parchment paper for the first few minutes that the pizza bakes. But as the pizza cooks and the crust begins to bake, the dough will loosen from the parchment. At this point, you will be able to pull and slide the parchment out from under the pizza so that the pizza bottom will now be cooking directly against the stone. (If the parchment paper does not pull out with ease after a few minutes of baking, leave it to bake a little longer and try again.) You may find that the parchment becomes a bit brown/black or possibly breaks apart more easily in this hot oven. (The parchment here will not remain as white as when you bake cookies in a lower temp oven.) Be careful not to burn yourself against the hot stone or rack when you slide the parchment out. Consider using tongs, gloves and/or a spatula as needed to ease the parchment out to continue baking.

Cooking time will vary based on your oven temperature, the thickness of your toppings and whether the pizza stone is sufficiently heated through before baking begins. In our wood-fired oven (which is 700F) the pizzas cook in 3-4 minutes. Your home oven will be cooler, so expect a longer cooking time (perhaps 8-10 minutes). But watch your pizza closely. It may take less time than that.

ALLERGEN ALERT: Please note that our dough is made in the Avalon kitchen which contains tree nuts, peanuts and sesame seeds. We cannot guarantee that cross-contamination has not occurred in our busy kitchen.

If you have any questions, you can text us at 306-280-2761 or email solargardenclasses@gmail.com. We are always interested in what people are making in terms of pizzas, if you’d like to send us a pic of your creations, we would love to see them.

Be creative and happy pizza baking!

To help you along with your succulent endeavours we thought you might like to have a glimpse of what we've learned throughout our 30 years of 'succulent' growth.

Soil

We've found that the best 'soil' for succulents is not a soil at all. It's a soiless mix! We use Pro Mix, or Sunshine mix number 4 or 8. To this we add perlite for enhanced drainage. Pro Mix is available in a 3.8-foot vacuum-sealed bag weighing about 55 lbs, if you buy one we will add the perlite and mix it for you in our mixing machine. Mixing it by hand is quite a chore.

For convenience to our customers, Solar Gardens also sells a bag for $3 that is enough to pot up about 2 ten inch bowls. If you require a larger bag, please don't hesitate to ask as we have other sizes available.

Terracotta Bowl

Any inexpensive terracotta pot will work for potting up succulents. When choosing a pot for growing succulents, make sure there is a hole in the bottom. If there is not, you will need to put one in. Use a Dremel with a bit used to put holes in ceramic tile. The bit is available at Home Depot or other hardware stores.

Terracotta draws a lot of water away from the roots of the plants when over-watered. It also retains a lot of heat collected from the sun during the day, keeping the roots warm in the nighttime low temperatures. Remember that cold, wet roots kill cacti and succulents!

Water and Fertilizer

At the beginning of March, we use a mixture of one rounded teaspoon of 20-20-20 fertilizer to a 2 gallon watering can. Never use chlorinated water or water from a water softener as the salt and chlorine may harm your plants.

• From March to October, use fertilizer every time you water.
• From October to March, do not use fertilizer when you water (which will be infrequently).
• From March to October, water succulents as needed when the soil throughout the bowl becomes dry.
• Remember that these plants are used to dry conditions, and thrive on neglect.
• It is actually better to underwater these plants than to overwater.
• For example, when your pot becomes very dry, your plants may become a bit soft to the touch and wrinkly. This is a good sign that the plant needs a drink.
• When succulents are over-watered (and we see this especially in winter November through March when the days are considerably shorter and cooler), they may die or their leaves turn yellow and fall off (usually beginning with leaves closer to the bottom).

Too Much or Too Little Water?

• In March and April we definitely err on the side of watering less, sometimes only watering once or twice monthly.
• In the months of October to December, do not fertilize.
• During winter months, succulents need only enough water to keep the roots alive. In reality, this amount of water is very little. With light levels low and our days being so short, water sparingly during these months (ie. infrequently and with only a small quantity of water).
• If the leaves start to turn soft, wrinkle or drop (in that order) then your succulents need water desperately.
• If your leaves drop without first having turned soft then wrinkly, that is a sign of overwatering.
• Many people's succulents begin to stretch in January as the days start to get longer. This is a telltale sign of overwatering in December or January.
• If you want your plants in your bowl or arrangement to remain more compact and not grow as much, do not water as much at any time of the year.
• However, if and when your plants do stretch, use a sharp pair of scissors or shears to cut the plant back near the bowl. Always leave a few leaves on the stem to ensure a few pups of growth.

Fertilizer

When purchasing fertilizer, one should not buy the largest container or quantity available. Buy smaller quantities at a time. When fertilizer sits on your shelf too long, it will turn hard and become difficult to accurately measure. We sell 20-20-20 in a 500 gm container. This size is not available at most garden centres, but this is the only way that we like to sell it in order to limit your waste and unnecessary cost.

Overwintering

Many, many people do not want to overwinter their succulents and that is just fine. No need to feel guilty. However, many avid gardeners do want to overwinter their succulents and that is great too. Today, succulents are more affordable, less scarce, and prices are more reasonable than in the past. Understand that every living plant (like us...unfortunately) will die at some point. However, succulents will live a lot longer than a dozen cut roses that will last a week (if you're lucky and will cost at least twice as much) even if you're changing their water everyday.

Succulents can outlive annuals and many perennials simply by understanding their seasonal growth habits. Solar Gardens' succulent class bowls cost $65 plus tax (but contain at least $125 value if all plants are purchased individually), are in a 10" diameter terra cotta bowl and contain 13 to 20 different varieties of succulent plants. These plants should surely last the spring, summer and fall (6 or 7 or 8 months) with little to no care outside on your patio or balcony. Keeping that in mind, if you would like to try to overwinter your succulents as some avid gardeners do (and again..don't feel guilty if you don't), here are a few tips:

Since winter days are so short, the plants really prefer to stay dormant (alive, but not growing) and they still need as much light as possible to stay alive. So putting them in a garage or basement or closet with no light will kill them. During this time they require vastly decreased amounts of water since they are not actively growing. Plus, succulents are desert plants and require little water to begin with even when they are actively growing.

We have found that most people kill their succulents during the winter with too much water (and not enough light - see the "Grow Light" section below). During the winter, succulents will still need a bit of water. But how much is "a bit of water"? Well, that is a very hard question to answer since the amount of water they need depends on many variables, such as - how warm or cold the room is, how much (or little) light they are receiving, how many plants are in the pot, how big (or small) the pot is, what the pot is made of (ceramic, terra cotta, glass or plastic), how big (or small) the plants are, and how much drainage each individual pot allows (if it has drainage at all). In general, a good rule of thumb is to add a small amount of water if the soil is exceedingly dry. With our class 10" terracotta bowls, you might add a cup of water occasionally during the winter but only if the soil is very dry.

So in a nutshell, most succulents die during the winter dormant period from COLD and WET roots. The key is to water infrequently with a small amount of water, just enough to keep the roots alive during dormancy. When overwintering, succulents prefer a sunny window (south is best), hardly any water, and a temperature above freezing.

The absolute BEST way to overwinter succulents is under grow lights....

Grow Lights

For those that are very serious about overwintering succulents we highly recommend grow lights. We carry a fantastic, amazing type at our Avalon shop. Lastly, don't be too upset if you haven't overwintered your succulents successfully. Like most things in life, it takes trial, error, time and patience. Not everything works (and grows) successfully all the time....unfortunately!

Who Doesn't LOVE a Summer Holiday? Succulents are no Exception!

Whether you've overwintered your succulents or purchased new ones in the spring, fall or winter, they ALL enjoy a summer holiday outside. But you should be aware of just a few things before moving them outside.

1. When placing outside NEVER let them freeze. Often we play it super safe and bring them indoors for the night if the forecast minimum is for +3 C. It's OK to leave your plants out during the day if it is above freezing, but in the spring we generally don't put them out during the day unless the temperature is going to be about 8 C or above. Of course some prefer not to put them out until about the 3rd week of May when (hopefully) the freezing is over and you don't have to bring them in at night. Whenever you put them out, keep an eye on your weather app. This is equally important in the fall if you plan on bringing them in to overwinter.
2. It's really hard on your succulents if you take them from your low-light houses, greenhouse and/or grow lights and put them out in direct sunlight. If placed out in the sun without acclimatizing, they will sunburn for sure. The sunburn won't usually kill the plant (if it is not too severe), but it will create dead looking areas on the leaves. These areas will never heal, so the leaf will be scarred for its' life.
3. To acclimatize your succulents to the sun, introduce them to the great outdoors gradually. For the first 3 or 4 days place them in the shade all day. After that, place them in a partly shady spot for another few days and then they can go into the direct sun in about a week.
4. Your succulents don't HAVE to be placed in the direct sun for the entire day. Most succulents will be happy all summer on a deck that may only get sun 3 or 4 hours of sun a day.

The main benefits of giving your plants a summer holiday are 3-fold:

• when your plants are outside they will be happier and appreciate the fresh air and its movement.
• you'll enjoy the benefits of added colour and less stretching of your plants (unless you're watering them too much).
• they will gain strength with direct sunlight which will give them more energy to help get them through our terribly LONG winters.

Overwintering Living Walls

In our living wall class, you may have planted your wall with either all hen and chicks (sempervivum), all other succulents that can't freeze or a combination of both. If your wall has nothing but hen and chicks in it skip to the next paragraph. If planted with all succulents that can't freeze (all succulents other than hen and chicks that are non-hardy in our climate) you can either overwinter the entire wall indoors or pull out the plants and plant them in pots either individually or like we do in the succulent bowl class - group together in a lovely arrangement using as many bowls as you need. If your wall has a combo of both types then you must separate the hen and chicks from the non-hardy succulents. For overwintering the non-hardy varieties be sure to read the section 'OVERWINTERING" above

The ABSOLUTE best way to overwinter the hen and chicks in your living wall is to lift them and plant them in your garden in the fall. Make sure they have thick snow cover all winter (it's good to have a place to pile all that driveway snow). Then in the spring you can lift them and plant them back into your living wall (It's so much fun to replant them into the wall in the spring and make up a new design). This is a little more work than just setting your planted living wall outside and hoping it will survive. Having said that, many of our living wall clients have very successfully overwintered their living walls right in their frames. If trying this, be sure your plants have a good snow cover as well.

Bugs

If you can see bugs on your succulents (aphids, fruit flies or cotton ball-like "downy mealy bugs"), use End All. End All is a green product made with pyrethrum (from the citronella plant).

Before you take your plant indoors in the fall, give it a good spray with End All. Spray from the edge of the bowl inwards, up and around, under the leaves. Wear a pair of rubber gloves and a respirator when spraying your plant in order to take proper safety precautions.

We always have End All in stock year round.

If you see small cotton balls on your plants you have mealy bugs. Before spraying with End All it will definitely help if you first remove any cotton balls that you see with a Q tip.

Unfortunately bugs are a fact of life and can occur on your plants any time of year. Of course bugs can attack your plants when outside and can be transferred into your house if you are overwintering your plants. Also, bugs and bug eggs can be brought into your house at any time of year. Small bugs and their tiny (usually invisible) eggs can be brought into your house by hitching rides on fruits, vegetables and grains that you buy at the grocery store. If your plants seem bug-free in the winter and then suddenly bugs appear (especially those annoying, tiny flying fruit flies) then they (or their eggs) have hitched a ride directly from the grocery store to your kitchen. The key is to be vigilant all year-round. Inspect your plants every week (even in the winter). It is much easier to deal with a few insects than a whole swarm of them.

End All is an oily substance that will stay on the plant surface for a couple of months and will actually enhance the colour of your plant! Solar Gardens carries it year round in our retail centre. As succulent specialists, we can say that End All in our experience is safe on succulents. However, if you are considering using it on non-succulent plants, we cannot guarantee that End All will be safe on all plants. You would need to research that as all plants are different.

Solar Gardens uses a systemic commercial product in late February and early March, which is drenched into the soil for the new active roots to absorb the chemical and ensure no bugs will exist. The chemical we use lasts for 8-9 months, and a one-time application per year is all that is needed. This doesn't mean that bugs cannot exist on the plants. But it does mean that for 8-9 months after our drenching, any bugs that bite into this plant will ingest the chemical and die.

Mealy-bug infestations can also be managed using a commercial product. Only commercial growers have access to it. It's expensive and requires additional precautions. As a result, it is not available to the general public. If you have a severe infestation, we can treat your succulents for you using this commercial product at our acreage. Send us your request via the CONTACT US form and we can provide a cost estimate.