(for Tillandsia / Airplant Care scroll to the bottom of this page)
To help you along with your succulent endeavours we thought you might like to have a glimpse of what we've learned throughout our 30 years of 'succulent' growth.
We've found that the best 'soil' for succulents is not a soil at all. It's a soilless mix!
We use Pro Mix, or Sunshine mix number 4 or 8. To this we add perlite for enhanced drainage.
Pro Mix is available in a 3.8-foot vacuum-sealed bag weighing about 55 lbs, which retails for about $55. If you buy one we will add the perlite and mix it for you in our mixing machine. Mixing it by hand is quite a chore.
Any inexpensive terracotta pot will work for potting up succulents.
When choosing a pot for growing succulents, make sure there is a hole in the bottom. If there is not, you will need to put one in. Use a Dremel with a bit used to put holes in ceramic tile. The bit is available at Home Depot for about $20
Terracotta draws a lot of water away from the roots of the plants when over-watered. It also retains a lot of heat collected from the sun during the day, keeping the roots warm in the nighttime low temperatures. Remember that cold, wet roots kill cacti and succulents!
Water and Fertilizer
At the beginning of March, we use a mixture of one rounded teaspoon of 20-20-20 fertilizer to a 2 gallon watering can. Never use chlorinated water or water from a water softener as the salt and chlorine may harm your plants.
Too Much or Too Little Water?
When purchasing fertilizer, one should not buy the largest container or quantity available. Buy smaller quantities at a time. When fertilizer sits on your shelf too long, it will turn hard and become difficult to accurately measure. We sell 20-20-20 in a 500 gm container. This size is not available at most garden centres, but this is the only way that we like to sell it in order to limit your waste and unnecessary cost.
Many, many people do not want to overwinter their succulents and that is just fine. No need to feel guilty. However, many avid gardeners do want to overwinter their succulents and that is great too. Today, succulents are more affordable, less scarce, and prices are more reasonable than in the past. Understand that every living plant (like us...unfortunately) will die at some point. However, succulents will last a lot longer than 2 dozen cut roses (at a cost of about $75 (plus taxes) that will last a week if you're fortunate and if you're changing their water everyday).
Succulents can out live annuals and many perennials simply by understanding their seasonal growth habits. Solar Gardens' succulent class bowls cost $49.50 plus tax( but contain approximately $125 value if all plants are purchased individually) are a 10" diameter terra cotta bowl and contain 13 to 20 different varieties of succulent plants. These plants should surely last the spring, summer and fall (6 or 7 or 8 months) with little to no care outside in your garden or on your balcony. Keeping that in mind, if you would like to try to overwinter your succulents as some avid gardeners do (and again..don't feel guilty if you don't), here are a few tips:
Since winter days are so short, the plants really prefer to stay dormant (alive, but not growing) and they still need as much light as possible to stay alive. So putting them in a garage or basement or closet with no light will kill them. During this time they require vastly decreased amounts of water since they are not actively growing. That, plus the fact that they are desert plants and require little water to begin with even when they are actively growing.
We have found that most people kill their succulents during the winter with too much water (and not enough light). On the other hand, they are still plants that are alive. So if you give them NO water, they are going to die - they still need "a bit" of water. How much is "a bit of water"? Well, that is a very hard question to answer since the amount of water they need depends on many variables, such as - how warm or cold the room is, how much (or little) light they are receiving, how many plants are in the pot, how big (or small) the pot is, what the pot is made of (ceramic, terra cotta, glass or plastic), how big (or small) the plants are, and how much drainage each individual pot allows (if it has drainage at all). For example, we recommend for our 10" diameter class terra cotta bowl that you water 1/4 cup every 2 to 3 weeks during the winter months. If the plants start to lose their bottom leaves and continue to drop leaves, water a little more frequently but still using the 1/4 cup measure. But, of course rules are meant to be broken. You may find that you have to adjust this "general rule" based on your own circumstances and the conditions in which you are keeping your succulents. You should also watch for signs of too little water, such as dropping leaves or leaves that are starting to wrinkle and dry up.
So in a nutshell, most succulents die during the winter dormant period from COLD and WET roots. The key is to water infrequently with a small amount of water, just enough to keep the roots alive during dormancy. When overwintering, succulents prefer a sunny window (south is best), hardly any water, and a temperature above freezing.
Lastly, don't be too upset if you haven't overwintered your succulents successfully. Like most things in life, it takes trial, error, time and patience. Not everything works successfully all the time....unfortunately!
Overwintering Living Walls
In our living wall class, you may have planted your wall with either all hen and chicks (sempervivum), all other succulents that can't freeze or a combination of both. If your wall has nothing but hen and chicks in it skip to the next paragraph. If planted with all succulents that can't freeze (all succulents other than hen and chicks that are non-hardy in our climate) you can either overwinter the entire wall indoors or pull out the plants and plant them in pots either individually or like we do in the succulent bowl class - group together in a lovely arrangement using as many bowls as you need. If your wall has a combo of both types then you must separate the hen and chicks from the non-hardy succulents. For overwintering the non-hardy varieties be sure to read the section 'OVERWINTERING" above
The ABSOLUTE best way to overwinter the hen and chicks in your living wall is to lift them and plant them in your garden in the fall. Make sure they have thick snow cover all winter (it's good to have a place to pile all that driveway snow). Then in the spring you can lift them and plant them back into your living wall (It's so much fun to replant them into the wall in the spring and make up a new design). This is a little more work than just setting your planted living wall outside and hoping it will survive. Having said that, many of our living wall clients have very successfully overwintered their living walls right in their frames. If trying this be sure they have a good snow cover as well.
If you can see bugs on your succulents (aphids or cotton ball-like "downy mealy bugs"), use End All. End All is a green product made with pyrethrum (from the citronella plant).
We always have End All in stock year round.
If you see small cottonballs on your plants you have mealy bugs. Before spraying with End All it will definitely help if you first remove any cottonballs that you see with a Qtip,
Unfortunately bugs are a fact of life and can occur on your plants anytime of year. Of course bugs can attack your plants when outside and can be transferred into your house if you are overwintering your plants. Also, bugs and bug eggs can be brought into your house at any time of year. Small bugs and their tiny (usually invisible) eggs can be brought into your house by hitching rides on fruits, vegetables and grains that you buy at the grocery store. The key is to be vigilant all year round. Inspect your plants every week (even in the winter). It is much easier to deal with a few insects than a whole swarm of them.
Solar Gardens uses a systemic commercial product in late February and early March, which is drenched into the soil for the new active roots to absorb the chemical and insure no bugs will exist. The chemical we use lasts for 8-9 months, and a one-time application per year is all that is needed. This doesn't mean that bugs cannot exist on the plants. But it does mean that for 8-9 months after our drenching, any bugs that bite into this plant will ingest the chemical and die.
Airplant / Tillandsia Care
Place your air plants in medium-bright indirect light. They may burn and suffer if they receive too much direct sun. If you've been looking for that perfect bathroom plant you've found it (if your bathroom has bright indirect light). Airplants love the humidity so if you take a shower every day or so that's perfect. They'll love you...and the humidity!
SInce airplants absorb water and nutrients through their leaves (they have little or no appreciative roots) you must either mist them or soak them in water. Misting once a week is good, but soaking in non-chlorinated water every week or 2 is best. Non-chlorinated water is easy to make - just always keep a pitcher or bowl of water on your counter and the chlorine burns off in 24 hours or so. Soak for 15 minutes up to an hour. When removing from the soak, turn the plants upside down and give them a good shake to remove any water that is trapped between the leaves at the base of the plant (which can cause the base to become mushy/rotten with eventual death). If the summer is hot and dry, the airplants should have a once a week soak for sure.
Approximately every 2 months soak your airplants in water with a touch of fertilizer (20-20-20). In a gallon of water, dissolve a 1/8 teaspoon of granules.
Airplants will do fine anywhere from 10 C to 32 C (if not in direct sun). Never let them freeze.
Brown/crispy ends? Water more often.
Brown/mushy base? Too much water. After a mist, make sure that no water has collected at the base between the leaves. If it has, give it a good shake. After soaking always make sure to give the plant a good shake.
Don't change a thing. Your plants are very happy. Keep doin' what you're doin'!
are never at rest...